The History of Portsoy

 

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With grateful thanks to his family.

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From the Book “In Leisure Hours” Printed privately in 1946 by John Cumming, M.D.  F.R.C.S.E. F.R.C.S.P.

1889 – Formation of Portsoy Town Council

The particular town that I knew best had no local governing body. That was represented by the local authority of the parish of Fordyce. In the late 'eighties, however the populace began to stir, with the result that the Police Act was adopted. The movement was not accomplished without opposition. Increased taxation loomed in the near future and there is no more potent factor for action than touching the pocket. In due course representatives were elected and a Council of Commissioners came into being. It consisted of a Chief Magistrate, two junior Magistrates, and six rank and file. It was not till 1893 that the Chief Magistrate assumed the title of Provost, and the two juniors, Bailies; the others were then termed councillors. These first representatives of the burgh held their opening meeting on November 26, 1889.

 

Before the important step of adopting the Police Act there had been no adequate water supply, and an indifferent drainage system. There was but one public well, "Charlie's Well.” It had a storage tank of very small cubic space, apt to become dry when the need was greatest. All water had to be carried by hand, curtailing the full use of the precious liquid. I never heard that the fluid had been subjected to analysis. For all that, matters went swimmingly on and the general health quite the average.

 

1889 - PORTSOY'S FIRST PROVOST APPOINTED  - Mr. James Clark appointed as Provost.

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, January 15th 1890: -

SAD CASE OF DROWNING  - Yesterday morning some half-dozen fisher lads left Portsoy for the rocks at the Boyne, there to collect limpets for bait.  It is not at all an unusual thing to undertake such journeys in order to procure shell-fish.  On this occasion a stiff breeze was blowing, the sea was agitated, and there was considerable motion along the rocks.  Apparently the boys had been engaged in collecting the limpets at a point called Old Hythe, in close proximity to the mouth of the Boyne, where the rocks are precipitous and dangerous to reach.

          While engaged at the occupation referred to, a heavy sea struck the rock, breaking over the ledge occupied by the boys.   At this moment one of their number, a lad between 13 and 14 years of age, named James Sutherland, son of Mr. William Sutherland, fisherman, Shore, was washed off and carried to sea.  His companions at once returned home and gave information regarding the sad occurrence.  In a short time several small boats were got ready and set sail for the scene of the fatality.   James Lyon, one of the youths who witnessed the accident, went along with one of the crews to point out the spot.

          The affair took place early in the forenoon, and considerable time necessarily elapsed before the news reached the town, owing to the distance of the locality.  Some of the boats returned without discovering any trace of the body.  The crews returned later on, and renewed the search, which was carried on from the outset for about two hours.  About two o’clock Mr. Reuben MacDonald, Back Green, succeeded in recovering the body, which had got in between two outlying rocks, a short distance from the place where the accident occurred.  The boat at once made for the harbour, which was reached about half-past two.  Strange to say, the father of the deceased, who had been at sea and therefore knew nothing of the sad affair, only reached the harbour when the boat containing the remains of his son was entering the channel.  At this time there were a good many people at the harbour and in the vicinity, and Mr. Sutherland must have felt keenly the sad intelligence which had to be imparted to him on his arrival.

          The deceased’s remains were conveyed to the house of his parents, close by the Old Harbour.  Much sympathy is felt for the parents in the bereavement they have suddenly sustained by the untimely death of their son. 

          We understand that the lad’s companions did their utmost to render him assistance.  This they endeavoured to do by tying parts of their clothing together and casting it towards him.  It is said that at the time of his being washed off the rock, deceased well nigh caught hold of one of his companions.

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, August 9th. 1893: -

PORTSOY’S PAST HISTORY - By the favour of Mr. John Sutherland, Druggist, we have got the use of some old manuscripts left to him by the late Dr. Greig, Portsoy, and as they were written fifty years ago their contents will be of considerable interest to Portsonians, both at home and abroad.  (See separate file “Manuscript of 1843” by Dr. George Greig)

 

9th. August 1895.

WATER SUPPLY  - Portsoy's first piped supply of water officially brought into use.

 

Banffshire Journal, Tuesday, October 1st, 1895: -

PORTSOY IMPROVEMENT COMMITTEE - A meeting of the town's Improvement Committee was held in the Institute on Wednesday.  (25th Sept).  After some general conversation it was unanimously resolved to take immediate steps to provide a golf course, a bowling green, and tennis court for the town, and that for defraying expenses a bazaar is to be held at an early date, and that a subscription list be opened.  A sub-committee was appointed to confer with the ladies in the town on the question of a bazaar.

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, July 14th, 1897: -

BOWLING CLUB  - At a meeting held in the Christian Institute on Monday evening (12th July) it was resolved to form a bowling club.  There was a good attendance at the meeting and a good many signified their intention of joining the club.

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, July 21st 1897: -

MARRIAGE NOTICE - At 31 St. Catherine Street, Banff, on the 15th. inst., Marcus Calder to Georgina H.D. Edward ninth daughter of Thomas Edward A.L.S. Banff. (Well known naturalist)

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, June 19th 1901: -

LETTER TO THE EDITOR - A HOLIDAY RESORT.

Sir  - Everybody in the country will be wondering at this season of the year where they are to spend their holidays.  They want to go to the seaside for a fortnight, or it may be for a month, but the question arises, "Where shall we go?  Where to get a good view of the sea in the most inexpensive way?"    Why, you need not bother your head about that matter; go to Portsoy, that little town situated on the shores of the Moray Firth.

          If you be a geologist, then you have a vast collection of specimens to claim your attention.  To the east of the town you have that rare specimen known as the Red Rock, the vein stretching across the bay to the Wick side, and having its twin sister in Arabia.  It contains hornblend, felspar, mica, etc.   Then to the west, are the famous marble quarries.  Many and varied are the colours of marble it contains.  For some time these quarries were worked, but being very soft could only be got in small pieces.  Many local people have made very beautiful ornaments, brooches, vases, beads, etc., with it.    Then again there is the soapstone, of which there is a vein running to Durn Hill in the distance.  This stone is used for enamelling china.   Near by is a cave which is said to be the entrance to an underground passage terminating in the Durn vicinity, where smuggling was carried on in days gone by to a great extent.  But the rocks are numerous and varied.

          To the botanist the woods are within a stone's throw, and contain many very beautiful specimens of wild flowers.  Even on the roadside these may be gathered, while on the braes may be culled the sea daisy and other sea plants. 

          An artist has only to take one summer holiday, and if he can put upon his canvas some of the scenery, be it attractive spots on the coast, ruins, harbour, or the great headlands that protect the town, both east and west, he will no doubt find himself an A.R.A. in a very short time.   I think I could almost term it the Spa of the Moray Firth, for I do not think there is another medicinal spring like John Legg's well along the coast. Its attractions suit all visitors.

          Portsoy is a very ancient town.  The first house that was built in it stands between the old and new harbours, with its foundations upon rock.  I forget the date, but it may be seen over the doorway.   It was built as a jointure house for the Dowager-Lady of the Boyne.    Boyne Castle is about a mile and a half distant.   It is now crumbling into ruins.   Mary Queen of Scots slept a night in it.  Two or three yards from this ancient pile is the pool known as the "Bottomless Pot," and towards the mouth of the burn stands the remains of the fort.  Here smuggling was carried on to a great extent, and in the great chamber of the castle was held the meetings of a body known as the Hell Fire Club, a party of local gentlemen who bound themselves by oath to renounce the Bible, burning a leaf each night they met, and then revelling in drunkenness and gambling.  I should think this was the Alpha and Omega of the sect, as I never heard of anyone following their example.  In the damp dark vaults the late Mr. Thomas Edward, naturalist, used to lie for nights, his pockets stuffed with insects of all sorts, watching the habits of a polecat or some other creature.

          At one time Portsoy exported large quantities of grain, and was a very important shipping port.   A company once offered to extend the old harbour right up to the Mill, now occupied by Mr. Ewing, but the offer was refused.  The town hadn't a provost then.  However there was a new harbour built for the convenience of the fishing boats; and although everyone knows it was a huge blunder, which no one can in the meantime remedy, the best will be for the men to be content with what they have.  There are always two ways of looking at things.  Some see only the dark cloud, and predict rain; others see the "silver lining" and feel sure the sun that is shining behind the cloud and will soon reappear; and, as I believe, the directors are doing the best they can, and the time will come when the fishermen's children will one day waken up to find a beautiful new harbour in place of the old one, where they may run in times of storm with perfect safety.

          Visitors, however, have got nothing to do with the woes of harbours.   They can get a row in the bay if they wish it from experienced fishermen, or lounge about the braes; and if tired of the sea I am sure they will get a welcome at the Bowling Green, Tennis or Croquet, as one feels sure in this enlightened age that Portsoy ladies and gentlemen know how to welcome a visitor, and remember it is only among the lowest east-enders in London that the word "class" is used.  One hears the saying a hundred times a day, "Oh, she's no class," but if one was to hear this in Portsoy it would be put down as "ignorant pride."   So, when the season for the visitors come round, give the strangers a welcome; invite them among you; make them feel at home. I do not mean the home people who revisit, as they get a welcome extended to them, and do not need outsiders.  Then will your town have visitors to overflowing, and they will not return to their home with the exclamation, "Oh, the people were like sticks!”

                                                                                                                 A.  PORTSONIAN

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, 1st. October 1902: -

PRINCE OF WALES PASSES THROUGH - Passing Portsoy on Thursday on his way to Gordon Castle by what he called "a very pretty route round by the coast" the Prince of Wales was heartily greeted by the ladies and Gentlemen on the Bowling Green and the Tennis Courts, who waved hats and handkerchiefs, and cheered vociferously.  The Prince graciously recognised the salutations as he passed through.

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, June 28th 1911: -

CORONATION CELEBRATIONS AND OPENING OF PUBLIC PARK - The inhabitants of Portsoy entered into the Coronation celebrations (on Thursday 22nd. July) with great interest and enthusiasm, and a loyalty that could not be mistaken.  The day dawned bright but breezy.   Later on the sun shone brightly.  Early in the afternoon rain attempted to fall once or twice, but it was simply mere attempts, for the afternoon was practically one of the best that could be desired, while a better evening could not have been wished for.  There was a glorious sunset.  The out-of-door proceedings were right heartily enjoyed.

          Displays of flags and bunting of different kinds were general throughout the town, the inhabitants having generously responded to the request that houses, shops, etc., should be decorated.  Nowhere could one go but there was evidences of loyalty, and manifestations of rejoicing were evident on all hands among young and old.  Indeed the rejoicing may said to have begun on the previous afternoon, when the hearts of the poor of the town were gladdened by each of them receiving from Provost Sutherland a free gift in the shape of a handsome Coronation canister, filled with tea, along with a parcel of sugar.  Altogether 88 canisters were distributed.

          Services were conducted in the Established Church, in the East U.F. Church (East and West congregations joining), in the Episcopal Church, and the Roman Catholic Church.   About one o'clock the town's bell and school bell sent forth merry peals in honour of the Royal event that was being celebrated in London.

          Before starting the children's procession an interesting ceremony took place - the presentation of Coronation medals and badges to the scholars by Provost Sutherland.  No fewer than 500 beautiful and ornate medals and badges had been supplied.  Bailie Gray who performed the presentation ceremony intimated to the children that they were all to be supplied with medals through the kindness and generosity of their good friend Provost Sutherland.  (Applause).   He would now present the medals with the assistance of Father Slorach.          

 

Banffshire Reporter, Wednesday, June 28th 1911: -

OPENING OF THE (SUTHERLAND) PUBLIC PARK - Here the important ceremony of opening the Public Park took place. (On Thursday, June 22nd. 1911)  The young people were arranged in rows, and the general public took up position around three sides of the square thus formed.  The Provost and members of the Town Council took their places on the platform, which was nicely arranged and decorated in readiness for the Coronation play.  There were some 1600 or 1700 people present. The party presented a gay and picturesque appearance when the opening ceremony was proceeded with by Provost Sutherland.

          Provost Sutherland, on coming forward, met with a hearty reception.  He said - "Ladies and Gentlemen, I am pleased to be asked by the Town Council formally to open this Public Park.   It has been provided for the recreation of the inhabitants of Portsoy, and as a playground for children, and I trust they will take the full use of it.   It must be a great pleasure to the Town Council and especially to the Park Committee, who have wrought so well in this matter, to be able to see this Park opened as the result and reward of their labours.  (Applause).  Although not a native of Portsoy, I have spent the best part of my life here.  Portsoy occupies a warm place in my heart.  I should like to do something for our little town, and I think the present occasion is a fitting time to do it.  It is my intention now to arrange to give to the town a sum of £1,000. (Prolonged applause).  This sum will be invested, and the income from it will be expended as may hereafter be decided upon.  One of the provisions will be that so long as the present lease lasts, the rent will be paid from the income of the money.  (Applause).  In order that the Park may get a fair start, I propose also to clear off the present debt on the Park due to the bank.  (Prolonged applause).  I have only now formally to declare this Park open, and I hope it may be a source of enjoyment in the time to come to every man, woman and child in Portsoy."  (Prolonged applause).

 

Banffshire Journal, Wednesday, June 28th, 1911: -

MUNIFICENT GIFT TO THE BURGH OF PORTSOY - Thursday (22nd. June 1911) was a red-letter day in the history of Portsoy, and the Coronation proceedings passed off with great eclat.  The enthusiasm was unbounded.  The poor of the town received handsome gifts of tea and sugar, and the children medals, through the generosity of Provost Sutherland.  The Provost formally opened the Town Park in the largest assemblage ever seen within the burgh.  In a speech full of dignity, self-restraint, and modesty, he intimated that out of his love for Portsoy he was to make a gift of £1,000 to the town.  There was no posturing, no flare of trumpets, and, what is rather unusual hereabouts; nothing could be read into it of an electioneering character.  The Provost's remarks were a model of brevity, simplicity and directness. The announcement of so unexpected a gift came as a complete surprise, and his auditors, after they had realised the munificence of his bequest, cheered Provost Sutherland to the echo.  The secret had been well kept, as not a whisper of the Provost's intentions had leaked out.

          We congratulate the burgh on having as its civic head a man of such large hearted and liberal sympathies.  We voice the feeling of the great bulk of the community when we say that Portsoy appreciates to the full Provost Sutherland's great generosity, and that he will always live in their grateful affections.  Baillie Gray aptly interpreted the feeling of the assembled crowd when he said that the park should be called the Sutherland Park.